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BBK 4009 1-3/4" Shorty Tuned Length Performance Exhaust Headers for Dodge Ram Truck 5.7L Hemi - Chrome Finish

JBA 1961S-2 Exhaust Header for Dodge RAM 5.7L Hemi 15/25/3500 2WD and 4WD

JBA 1961S-1JT 1-5/8" Shorty Stainless Steel Titanium Ceramic Exhaust Header for Ram 5.7L Hemi 2500 4WD 1500

Title
BBK 4009 1-3/4″ Shorty Tuned Length Performance Exhaust Headers for Dodge Ram Truck 5.7L Hemi

JBA 1961S-2 Exhaust Header for Dodge RAM 5.7L Hemi 15/25/3500 2WD and 4WD

JBA 1961S-1JT 1-5/8″ Shorty Stainless Steel Titanium Ceramic Exhaust Header for Ram 5.7L Hemi 2500 4WD 1500

Brand
BBK Performance

JBA

JBA

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Price
$349.99

$570.99

$678.02

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BBK 4009 1-3/4" Shorty Tuned Length Performance Exhaust Headers for Dodge Ram Truck 5.7L Hemi - Chrome Finish

Title
BBK 4009 1-3/4″ Shorty Tuned Length Performance Exhaust Headers for Dodge Ram Truck 5.7L Hemi

Brand
BBK Performance

Prime Benefits

Price
$349.99

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Product Page
JBA 1961S-2 Exhaust Header for Dodge RAM 5.7L Hemi 15/25/3500 2WD and 4WD

Title
JBA 1961S-2 Exhaust Header for Dodge RAM 5.7L Hemi 15/25/3500 2WD and 4WD

Brand
JBA

Prime Benefits

Price
$570.99

Checkout

Product Page
JBA 1961S-1JT 1-5/8" Shorty Stainless Steel Titanium Ceramic Exhaust Header for Ram 5.7L Hemi 2500 4WD 1500

Title
JBA 1961S-1JT 1-5/8″ Shorty Stainless Steel Titanium Ceramic Exhaust Header for Ram 5.7L Hemi 2500 4WD 1500

Brand
JBA

Prime Benefits

Price
$678.02

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The Complete Shorty Header Install Guide for a Dodge RAM 1500

Video Review


Video Transcript


alright guys so in this video today is
the day that we’re finally putting those
headers on the truck so I’m not looking
forward to it I’m looking forward to the
result but not the actual process but
I’m gonna share the process with you
guys and doing it by myself simple hand
tools as always to keep it real with you
guys so that you guys can hopefully
tackle it at home if you decide to so
let’s get into it I’m just in the
process of jacking the truck up we got
jack stands and we got the jacks we’re
gonna pop the wheels off pop the fender
liners off and get in there so this is
the stuff that we’re gonna be putting on
the truck so here’s everything that’s
involved we got the two headers check
out the other video if you guys haven’t
checked it out we have the other video
on how to actually wrap the headers so I
go through that whole process because
these are the jba shorty headers and
they’re quite difficult to wrap so I
don’t even want to touch them right now
I’m gonna get some gloves on because
these things the fiberglass in the heat
wrap is super itchy so I want to avoid
touching them if at all possible so
there’s the headers ready to go you guys
will notice here that they don’t have a
gasket there which is why we need this
so we need some ultra collar copper
we’re gonna put it here so that it seals
the exhaust nicely
we got brand new fel-pro multi-layer
sealed gaskets with the heat shield
we’re probably gonna bend the heat
shield up and out of the way so we’re
gonna replace the gaskets we are also
going to put stage eight fasteners on it
so these are locking fasteners and
basically they’re good quality fastener
that’s kind of how they operate you put
them in
and then you put the locking tab on it
to prevent them from loosening so we’re
gonna use these ones they’re better than
the ones that are supplied with the GBA
ones which is just regular bolts so
we’re gonna get all that done but let’s
let’s get to it let’s get these wheels
off and get in there all right we’re
gonna start with the passenger side
since it’s less congested and yeah I
want to do the easy one first but I’m
assuming you guys if you’re gonna be
tackling this you’ll know how to take
out the fender liners already but if you
don’t super simple
I covered it in my exhaust manifold stud
repair video more thoroughly but
basically you’re gonna be taking out the
bolts that around the perimeter and
there’s some speed clips on the inside
I’m gonna pop this out real quick and
then let’s go ahead and get into the
good stuff
okay so we’re into the meat and potatoes
on the passenger side at least so
basically this what we got we’re gonna
have a series of ten millimeter bolts
believe one of memory 13 underneath
these tens but I’m gonna go ahead and
just give these a sort of PB Blaster I
removed them before for the for the stud
change about 20,000 miles ago but I just
don’t want to be snapping anything as
I’m sure you guys can understand so it’s
gonna give these guys a little bit help
you guys don’t know about PD blaster
this stuff is amazing I would definitely
recommend it if you guys haven’t tried
it but yeah we’re just gonna give those
a squirt and let’s let’s start cracking
everything loose so like I said I’m just
gonna rip through those guys I don’t
think I have to explain too much about
taking off just take off all the bolts
and all of our stock manifolds here and
these two bolts here on the end so let’s
whip through this stuff and get these
taken out and then we can start play
with the new stuff
okay is the ten bolts on the heat
shields I removed now I’m gonna go ahead
and remove these fourteen head bolts
that hold the manifold to the down pipe
or to the catalytic converters okay so
those two back bolts came out like
butter again my truck has over a hundred
thousand miles on it around 108 thousand
miles
I had these all these bolts replaced
except for the two that are connecting
the exhaust system but I had all these
studs and bolts replaced myself actually
in another video like I said probably
about and I think around 93 or 98
thousand so not too long ago so I don’t
have any issues with taking them out but
if if you guys have you know decent
mental models in your truck be prepared
for some of these be snapped and broken
and stuck in the head unfortunately when
you’re taking this part but we should be
all good to go I’m gonna rip through
these take min fold off
all right so obviously the old headers
out the new header it fit in here easily
from this passenger side at least you
can kind of see how easy it goes in and
out of here it basically just tucks
straight in I was just doing some test
fitting so there it is out and a little
bit of manipulation of the heater hoses
and it’s back in but it does appear that
the Y pipe if you guys can see our holes
are misaligned here so we are going to
have to kinda loosen the Y pipe because
I don’t want to be fighting the manifold
putting the bolts in so we’re gonna have
to loosen it so we can shove
everything’s back we’re probably about a
I want to say maybe a quarter of an inch
off so I don’t have two hands here so
I’m gonna loosen the Y pipe so that we
can get it back towards the back of the
vehicle and then get our bolts on so
what I am gonna do is I’m going to go
ahead and start on the other side so we
can remove the Y pipe bolts cuz it’s
probably holding it I might not have to
actually disconnect it from the rest
exhaust but um at least taking it off of
the manifold then the other side is
gonna allow us to push it back more so
let’s go ahead and yank the fender liner
on the driver’s side and get that side
ready – all right so here we are on the
driver’s side of course like I was
saying there’s a lot more congestion a
lot more stuff going on on this side so
some of the obvious things we have this
cable leading to the transmission that
is going to be in our way that we’ll
probably have to move just to get things
in there we also have the steering
column
so we’ll probably undo it here and
remove it from the column just so we can
get in here
so hopefully that won’t be too much of a
pain but that’s the plan
so it looks like we have joint here that
we can hopefully slip ups to get it out
of here and flip it out of our way so
that’s another one and the other one is
the dipstick
so dipstick is gonna have to come out as
well in order for us to get these in
here but that’s kind of what we got
going on so far guys I’m gonna go ahead
and spray some PV blaster on these two
bolts same as we did the other side so
they don’t give us any trouble
so we’ll spray these and then start
taking stuff apart so let’s go ahead and
remove these 40 millivolts connecting
the exhaust so with the exhaust
disconnected you could probably proceed
on the driver side if you wanted to but
I want to finish what I started on the
passenger side and least make sure that
everything is lining up correctly before
we go ahead and rip this side off so I’m
gonna go ahead and complete the manifold
on the passenger side so after a little
bit of fiddling around I actually did
have to put something in the exhaust
even though I freed the exhaust
you know the cats the Y pipe from the
driver’s side with those bolts they
still didn’t give me enough clearance on
this side so I guess maybe my exhaust is
a little bit far forward maybe the
average one or maybe this is just a
little bit tighter tolerances either way
I did have to put something and
basically shove my whole exhaust system
back out of the way temporarily so that
I can work on this so I have that back
there my muffler and everything’s pushed
back so that I don’t have to remove the
Y pipe I was thinking about removing the
Y pipe if I don’t have to I’m not going
to and at the same time – I don’t know
if it’s gonna be any easier to start
getting everything in without taking
everything off from the back which I
don’t want to do right now so it’s just
more work than necessary so I’m gonna go
ahead and listen to that train horn now
I’m gonna go ahead and put the bolts in
on the bottom with the gasket then we’re
gonna hang the manifold and then start
putting everything in so we’re all set
we got our new gaskets look at the
manifold you got the old one
everything’s here is stage eight
fasteners let’s go ahead
[Music]
okay so like I think it was mentioning
we’re probably gonna have to put a
little bit of a tweak on both of these
heat shields on the gaskets so right
here you can see we have a high point on
the manifold it was fairly easy to
basically just hang the manifold on
those bottom bolts because all the
bottom bolts on the manifold are slotted
but I’m gonna go ahead and put a
slightly higher tweak in this section
because I don’t want it to rub on my
trap and start shaping it right away so
as you can see I put this kind of hump
there now if we rock this forward that’s
how things are gonna sit okay which I
think looks pretty good got nice
clearance all the way through and we’re
all set so I think that’s about it and
slightly higher tweaking it just for fun
and we can rock this up and start the
fun process of getting all these bolts
tightened and it’s gonna be fun
hoping that we can leave this sheet
shield up here because getting to the
bolts with the heat shield is gonna be
quite the task I know that much guys so
hopefully it’s not as difficult as I’ve
made it for myself but we’ll find out
soon enough okay time for a new tactic
so instead of putting all them across
the bottom I’m gonna go ahead and put
this one here
this one also has a slot in the manifold
because there is literally almost no
room to stick your hand in there to get
the bolt in there I fought with it for a
second to see if I could save it but I
don’t think it’s gonna really go so I’m
gonna hang it on this and swing it up
that way and then put my bolts in across
the bottom I’m gonna try this tactic
because the other one was fighting me
quite a bit I mean if I take this top
portion of the heat shield off I could
probably get away with it because I
would have more room but I if at all
possible guys I want to try to retain
that heat shield just to kind of keep
keep the temperatures down keep them
away from the hoses and the rest of the
engine so let’s see if we can work with
this up Plan B here so I got this bolt
in here
alright looks like that one’s not gonna
work either because the manifold are now
hitting the block so let’s go ahead and
just let that one win so that one can
take the cake fine
we’re not gonna save ourselves with any
extra bolts we’re just gonna go ahead
and start firing these in but at least
that one that’s difficult to get to I
think we can get to it from the bottom I
don’t see easy you know one jinx myself
but the bottom we can get a wrench on it
it’s like through but it’s definitely
not definitely pretty buried I’m not
gonna lie okay after some much-needed
profanity we got the top four bolts on
now I’m going to tackle the bottom four
and this side one and we’ll continue
okay all bolts are in except for the one
on the end here now comes a daunting
task of tighten them all with a stubby
little 11 millimeter wrench so let’s see
how we do
okay guys bolts are all tight on this
side I don’t want to say that it was
easy but it wasn’t the hardest thing
I’ve done in my life I’ve had lots of
turbo cars before and turbo manifolds
and this was you know it took me right
back to those days so I got it done I
wasn’t complaining too much just more
hanging it and figuring out this one
that you definitely have to put this one
in first because trying to get it
started and trying to put it on there is
just too difficult so definitely put
that loan first and the rest are pretty
accessible these ones you can all get
from the top these two you can actually
use an extension and a socket on which
is nice
basically one two three four you can use
the socket an extension on this side and
then these two underneath on the bottom
you can just get a wrench in no problem
I actually I bought a little tiny Harbor
Freight kit with a bunch of little
stubbies in it thinking that I might
have to hack it up and chop it but this
little guy has been working so far so so
far so good
don’t jinx it but let’s I’m not gonna
put the stage eight fasteners on there
yet the actual locking tabs I’m gonna go
ahead and get on the other side first
make sure everything’s kosher before we
finalize with those locking tabs so
let’s move it to the other side and
we’ll rip the manifold off and start
with this again okay so to start off
let’s get rid of the dipstick and the
heat shield so we’re gonna take out the
10 mil bolts there’s also another 10 ml
bolt down here that’s holding the
dipstick in so you’re gonna have to pull
the dipstick out of the tube from the
top remove that bolt and then also this
one is holding it so let’s go ahead and
get all this stuff done and get heat
shield and dipstick out of here
[Music]
okay there is one sensor wire right here
you can see you basically just squeeze
bolt TASM on both sides and pull down I
would remove this to get the dipstick
out it makes it a lot easier I don’t
have four-wheel drive so there’s
probably a little bit more trouble
getting out that bottom 10 mils I just
took out here I’d show you guys but
honestly just a 10 mil bolt that holds
the dipstick in to the block so this is
free we can go ahead and take this out
now
okay now I’m gonna choose I mean
realistically I’ve done this before
where I’ve left all this in place when I
took that manifold the stock went out
before but I’m gonna choose to make some
room first before removing this manifold
so first things first let’s dislodge
this cable so I’m gonna pop this cable
out of here and then I’m going to remove
this bracket that’s sitting here and I’m
gonna basically move this wire harness
out of the way as well so let’s go ahead
and pop this off and then we’ll move
this bracket to okay so the brackets
removed it’s a thirteen millimeter and
it’s a stud so that’s gonna give us more
clearance through here as you can see
when we’re working on things and I might
actually leave this off and basically
tie things out of the way of the heat
because I’d rather keep everything
further away as opposed to being way up
here closer to that manifold okay now
cuz they’re going to go ahead and work
on the steering column shaft so let’s go
ahead and loosen this it looks like a 13
mil and see what that does we might have
to loosen the bottom one as well but
that way we can get this out of our way
and continue okay I put a little bit of
pv blaster on this so we can wiggle it
out these things are keyed guys so don’t
be on the newer vehicles they only they
have a one section of the spline that’s
actually thicker so it can only go in
one way so don’t be too concerned when
you’re taking this out but the older
vehicles of course you can reposition
the steering wheel different from the
rack but these newer ones they have a
specific key they can only go in one way
so let’s wiggle this out
okay as I was explaining basically you
can see we got a flat side to flat sides
and then a rounded bottom so there’s
really only one way you can put this in
unless you’re going in there and
spinning the wheel you’re not gonna have
to wreak lock it anyways but just be
aware that you’re not gonna do anything
you also see that I jammed a flat
screwdriver in here just to spread it
and help it get it apart also put PV
blaster on it but we are now out of the
way I think that should suffice for I’m
getting those headers in there if not we
can also remove it from the bottom there
so if we have to we’ll remove it from
the bottom as well but let’s go ahead
and continue and see where we get this
thing can also suck up and out of our
way it’s gonna try to probably come down
but this is some pretty good clearance
we have right now I’m also guessing we
might have to remove this shield but
we’ll find out in a second after we get
this off okay so I’m just gonna whip
through this again guys 10 mils and 13
mils and this will come all off so with
the steering column removed or at least
disconnected you can take everything out
straight this way which is nice as we
did do this before and it wasn’t as easy
to take this out okay just real quick
before we continue guys like check out
the difference in that like that one
just looks so pathetic next to that I
mean it’s kind of obvious to see that
this is a choking point for such a big
motor and that one is much more
substantial but let’s keep going it is
fun but hopefully this side doesn’t turn
into a nightmare let’s cross our fingers
knock on some wood and get in there okay
so the new header has slots on the
bottom
so let’s go ahead and hopefully follow
their lead and we’ll put the gasket on
first and hopefully we’ll hang the
bottom but as always we’ll see what
happens
okay so you guys can probably see that
tweak to this side quite a bit we’re
gonna see if it’ll stay where I put it
because the tubes on the manifold go up
high here quite a bit so I’m hoping I
can get away with that staying there but
we’ll find out I’m just gonna let it do
its thing and hopefully it moves itself
out of the way as much as it needs to so
I’ve got to push it up as high as I can
go ahead and see if I can swing this
manifold in through here not sure if I
can not sure if it’s gonna clear this
but we’ll find out in two seconds
okay guys that fell into place way
easier than I anticipated in like
hands-down for sure so you guys saw
there’s no tricks I just had to
continuously push up on the steering
column shaft because it keeps trying to
come down with this boot on it but I
basically just rotated in laying it on
those bottom four bolts and we’re we’re
set here so let’s go ahead and put these
bolts in I think I’m actually going to
just notch out this part of the shield
guys on this manifold gasket I want to
move the whole thing I want to leave as
much as possible but I am going to just
notch it out you can kind of see this
bump here on the head and what’s
happening is as I push the gasket in or
as the manifold pushes the gasket in it
basically forces this to come down and
touch the manifold so you can kind of
see this action there where it kind of
comes back down as I push it up and it’s
forcing this basically razor-sharp fore
edge into the wrap which is gonna cut it
and it’s going to come unraveled and
just gonna get ugly Plus this manifold
runner comes pretty close to this
plastic I’ve heard that you sometimes
have to trim this but basically what I’m
going to do is just kind of trim a
section out of here around this one
point so I’m going to mark it take it
off will trim it and I’ll put it back on
okay guys we got the gasket trimmed in
the corner so let’s go ahead and hang
this manifold again and continue
okay so we got all the bolts tightened
and basically we’re pretty well ready to
go with the next step in putting this
thing back together you can see the heat
shield here it’s got this slight little
ripple in it I’m super picky so I’m
probably gonna clean this up a little
bit later when I have a little bit more
tools but it is clearing it’s not
touching anything not rubbing anything
we cut it off here and ended it there
before this kind of crazy runner starts
heading back up because there’s not
really any tolerance or clearance in
there to be able to do anything so
that’s there like that and one thing you
guys want to check is you don’t want
this heat shield to be kind of vibrating
and making noise so I know this is gonna
sound ridiculous but one way to check if
it’s gonna be vibrating on something is
to kind of just pick it like a guitar
string
and you’ll hear like that if it you hear
it rubbing against something it’s gonna
make up Brown like kind of like a good
car noise and that’s something that
you’re gonna hear driving on the road so
this is just a simple tip check that I
like to do just make sure it’s not
rubbing against anything so you don’t
hear vibrating on anything because
otherwise you’ll hear it on the road so
I’m gonna go ahead and get the copper
sealant on here so ultra copper cuz I
gotta get out of here and drive this
thing away today and this takes about an
hour to at least somewhat cure 24 hours
complete cure but it’s supposed to at
least set for an hour so I’m going to go
ahead and smear that on here and get my
exhaust connected up and then we can
continue with the install I’m gonna try
and get those stage 8 locking tabs on
there today too so let’s continue we
also do have to transfer over our nuts
from our factory manifolds for the
connection to the exhaust and you’re
also going to have to crunch these down
a little bit tighter you can basically
do with your hands but you got to make
the gap smaller because these are
significantly skinnier than the factory
ones so in order for it to stay on there
you got to use it you could technically
just take the nut but then you’re gonna
be left having to grab it whereas this
thing has this kind of
little thing or it’ll grab and whack
onto the end of it and stop it from
spinning so I just never use these
they’re not pretty but they work so
let’s get them on here they also have a
little centering mechanism which is nice
keeps on that centered in there ok so
that’s on I’m gonna go ahead and get the
other side ready because I’m going to
try and do it at both at the same time
more or less so let’s keep going ok guys
let’s go ahead and smear it on the
passenger side and now let’s go ahead
and reconnect this passenger side
exhaust ok with this side relatively
close and ready to go let’s go ahead
back to our driver’s side and get it to
in the same state because I don’t want
to be fighting each side
ok so same thing on this guy’s let’s go
ahead and smear that copper sealant on
there Ultra copper and then we’ll go
ahead and pull things together
good run into a little snag this bolt is
a little bit too long you probably could
run it if you really wanted to but it’s
gonna drive itself into the piping is
with the exhaust now tight I’m gonna
have to run to the store I just kind of
did a makeshift for now I had to find a
smaller bolt but all the stores are
closed right now so I still have to
drive this tonight like I was saying
earlier so basically I just robbed
another bolt from another one on the
vehicle but do you need a shorter bolt
or in retrospect you because this hole
so baked or large you could potentially
run the bolt this way and out the back I
ended up trying to cut it with just some
stuff I had here and ended up not being
able to to utilize it because the
threads are buggered on it so anyways
I’ll get a different bolt but for now I
got it
bolt it up I’m gonna go ahead and start
putting on these stage 8 fasteners where
I can so let’s go ahead and just run
these basically it’s super simple guys
you clock this on the bolt and then you
put the c-clip in place to hold it so I
know it’s super tight in here I’m gonna
do my best to get all these on but let’s
see what happens so there we go guys
that’s basically how it goes as you can
see the tab just basically goes on there
like that and it can’t reverse so the
threads can’t come undone it can only
tighten potentially if it wanted to but
it can’t
undo itself so unfortunately the clip is
a little bit hard to remove are starting
to install I’m hoping some of these more
blocked ones I’ll be able to get that
tool in there to pop that c-clip on
there because I did have to use a pair
of needle nose pliers to to get that on
here but let’s see how many we can get
on hey guys so I pretty much got the
other ones on the other side but here is
a few more of them you can see I’m just
kind of going ahead and putting them on
so they are I didn’t film most of the
ones in the other side because there’s
hardly any room back there so by the
time my hand is in there honestly you
can’t see anything but I’m gonna go
ahead and show you guys these ones at
least hopefully you can see this with
the camera here in the lighting but yeah
let’s go ahead and I’ll show you the
rest of these so here’s these two
installed you can see them just sitting
here and I’m going to finish this one
I’ve got it clocked and then we’ll just
go ahead and squeeze that c-clip on
there okay so here it is and this is
kind of a technique to put the c-clip in
you basically just put your needlenose
pliers in the center and squeeze the
outside of the c-clip and that’s it it’s
installed so let me go ahead and get the
rest of these done like I said they’re
pretty much buried so you guys probably
won’t see much but I’ll finish it up
okay so we got the locking tabs on both
sides the only two that we were unable
to get was this one here I’m probably
enough to cut one of those tabs later
and another one on the other side where
it’s just almost impossible to get
behind and get in between so most of
them are on like I said just one on this
side and one on the passenger side that
we didn’t get to but I’m gonna go ahead
and install the dipstick tube now so
we’re probably gonna have to manipulate
this a little bit but let’s go ahead and
get this in there okay guys so dipstick
tube wasn’t too bad actually you kind of
just have to flip it behind this pipe
and maybe just bend this heat shield
ever so slightly towards the front of
the vehicle and it clears straight
through there you will notice that that
bolt is no longer there for it to mount
to so I’m gonna have to come up with for
now I’m just gonna put a tie strap up
above here just to hold it but we will
have to come up with something to
basically fast
this from you know rattling or whatnot
but we’ll come up with that later it’s
not a pressing issue right now but for
now it’s it’s complete so the next thing
to do would be to put the steering shaft
back together so we can go ahead and
slide these back together super easy and
then install our 13 millimeter bolt okay
next let’s go ahead and reinstall this
bracket for the transmission cable okay
and just for some extra clearance so I
am gonna bend this bracket for the
transmission cable just back and away
from the exhaust a little bit nothing
too crazy but I think what here should
be good just gives it a bit of extra
clearance away from that heat okay
so we’re all set guys I think this is
pretty much it everything’s tight
everything’s good let’s go ahead the
dipstick is actually inserted into the
tube wire harnesses are out of the way
I think we’re good to go for now okay
guys I just started it up made sure
there was no exhaust leaks
I had to tighten up basically where it
meets the Y pipe a little bit more but
other than that we don’t have any
exhaust leaks which is good and
everything seems tight sounds good so
let’s go ahead and throw these fender
liners back in
all right so thanks for watching guys
hope you enjoyed that video I know it
was a lot longer video but that process
does take a long time and I was trying
to condense it as much as I could for
you guys but I hope you guys found that
helpful if you did give it a thumbs up
for me any comments questions on the
whole procedure or anything on the truck
build anything be sure to leave a
comment in the comments below make sure
you subscribe to the channel and turn on
that Bell notifications so you’re
notified of the latest videos also we’re
on Instagram too if you guys are on
Instagram same spelling as a channel at
boosted Motorsports but wherever you
guys want to follow along as cool as me
but we’ll see you next video
take care

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Last update on 2020-10-28 / Disclaimer: as an Amazon Associate a Simply Philosophy team earns from qualifying purchases.

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Last update on 2020-10-28 / Disclaimer: as an Amazon Associate a Simply Philosophy team earns from qualifying purchases.