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8 pcs NGK V-Power Spark Plugs for 1996-1999 GMC K1500 5.7L 5.7L 5.0L V8 - Engine Kit Set Tune Up

NGK 3951 Pack of 8 Spark Plugs (TR55)

ACDelco 41-962 Professional Platinum Spark Plug (8 Pack)

Title
Sixity Auto 8 pcs NGK V-Power Spark Plugs for 5.7L

NGK 3951 Pack of 8 Spark Plugs (TR55)

ACDelco 41-962 Professional Platinum Spark Plug (8 Pack)

Brand
Sixity Auto

NGK

ACDelco

Prime Benefits

Price
$23.37

$18.04

$44.95

Preview
8 pcs NGK V-Power Spark Plugs for 1996-1999 GMC K1500 5.7L 5.7L 5.0L V8 - Engine Kit Set Tune Up

Title
Sixity Auto 8 pcs NGK V-Power Spark Plugs for 5.7L

Brand
Sixity Auto

Prime Benefits

Price
$23.37

Preview
NGK 3951 Pack of 8 Spark Plugs (TR55)

Title
NGK 3951 Pack of 8 Spark Plugs (TR55)

Brand
NGK

Prime Benefits

Price
$18.04

Preview
ACDelco 41-962 Professional Platinum Spark Plug (8 Pack)

Title
ACDelco 41-962 Professional Platinum Spark Plug (8 Pack)

Brand
ACDelco

Prime Benefits

Price
$44.95

How To Replace Spark Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor 1996-1998 Chevy GMC Truck 5.7 Vortec Tune Up

Video Review


Video Transcript


hello I’m going to take you through a
simple basic tune-up on this truck
here’s Chevy 1998 Vortech 352 5.7 liter
this is the last year of the Vortech 350
before they switch to a distributor
distributorless ignition 5.3 liter this
is going to be different than a 5.3
liter because the distributorless system
on the 5.3 liter which is what this
engine block is right here has coils
that bolt to the top of the valve cover
I don’t have them here right now but
each individual spark plug has its own
coil this system is different this is
the last year like I say of the Vortech
350 there’s a distributor back here in
the back side of the engine that we will
get familiar with you’ll see and this is
just going to be a quick control and I’m
going to hand the camera over and I’m
going to show you some things we need to
do before we get started okay so these
are the components we’re going to need
to do the basic tune-up on this truck
this is the distributor cap this is the
rotor which rides underneath the
distributor cap and spins with a contact
here and there’s a tab here underneath
the cap you can see where this tab would
ride on that contact and the sleeve is
upside down but I’m just showing you
just for demonstration purposes as it
spins this tab right here allows voltage
to complete the circuit through each
post sending the voltage for the spark
to each individual post on the road on
the cap through the spark plug wires
each individual wire to each individual
plug okay and this is where I’m going to
pause for a second these spark plugs
they need to be gapped the air gap
between the conductor and the outside
here on the arm you’ll see needs to have
a specific air gap okay so what we’re
going to do is we’re going to come over
here to the truck in a lot of cases
there’s a tag just like this one you
probably can’t read it but I’ll show you
right here says spark plug gap and it
tells you what it needs to be
okay so we’re going to come back over
here to our spark plugs we’re going to
use tools to check and adjust the gap if
necessary this is just a little gapping
tool I’m going to hand the camera off
here on that spark plug tool it says the
difference it says the different air
gaps that are that you know whatever
your specific model what you need this
just slides right inside the cannot
connect conductor just like this between
the conductor in the outside and you
want to spin it it widens out as it goes
around until you can just start to touch
it just feel a little bit of it where
it’s kind of gripping you want to check
your number okay that’s right
then we’re going to go to the next one
we’re going to do the same thing check
it yeah that’s right if you get one
that’s wide or loose you can use a spark
plug tool just like this to close the
gap or to open it but you want to make
sure that your gaps are right on all
your plugs before you even start this is
what I do okay okay I move I remove the
snorkelers your soul if you familiar
with the truck you’ll know what I’m
talking about comes across here to the
air filter I will remove that to get it
out of the way I’m just going to come
over here to this side of the bank of
the engine if you look down in here you
see the spark plugs right in writing
through the holes in the exhaust
manifold here you’ll there to allow
access to them I what I usually do is if
there’s plenty of good looms where I can
tell where the wires came from I just
pull all the wires off of the plugs
leave them hang and then I go after the
spark plugs of course with a tool just
like this spark plug socket and ratchet
hopefully you have these tools get in
there and loose them up pull the plugs
out one at a time and replace them with
your air gap check plugs that you did
earlier one quick note I want to make I
got the spark plugs in on this side on
this Bank of the engine when you’re
tightening them you don’t want to get
crazy with it when you’re tightening
them get them so they’re snug and then
give them maybe just a little bit more
just trying to have some wrench sense if
you get in there and start hulking these
things in it’s pretty easy to to messing
things up I mean you can even end up
cracking the porcelain on your new plugs
if you do not if you’re not holding your
ratchet correctly just be careful be try
to be sensible try to have some wrench
sense some spark plugs have a crush
collar a crush washer rather right here
this one does not you see some plugs
they’ll have a washer on here that looks
like it’s I guess it’s kind of thick
it’s designed so that when you’re
torquing it down it crushes a little bit
these don’t have that just just try it
like I say just trying to use you some
wrench signs try to just don’t don’t get
them too tight if your socket gets off
axis at all on this while you’re
tightening it it’s really really easy to
crack this portion I’ll just be very
careful when you’re tightening it okay
I’m going to show you well this is this
is what I do you don’t have to do this I
don’t expect you to do this I I want to
know if there’s a problem with a
particular cylinder on an engine you
sometimes can tell that by looking at
the clubs the condition of the plugs
that were in the engine so I set them
out so that I know which cylinder it
came out of I just set them up like this
just like they would gone into the
engine there’s certain things you can
look for I’m not going to go through the
entire gamut of how you can diagnose
engine problems but just for curiosity’s
sake if you’re curious you can take your
gapper that we used earlier and check
these and say hey the gap was really
wide on that one or hey it was really
tight on that one or whatever just for
giggles or whatever you know what I mean
there’s certain indicators you can find
on the porcelain if you see carbon
tracking on there you can tell you know
obviously it was misfiring carbon
Tracking’s typical lines that are going
to run this way on the porcelain that
can’t be wiped off kind of greyish
blackish lines of indicator misfire
condition also if you look the little
prong here on the spark plug sometimes
you’ll see deposits on there
chalky kind of deposits that build up to
be an indication of a failing head
gasket things of that nature so all
so you can get sometimes blow-by through
here that would indicate the failing
sparkplug just just want you to have a
quick look at what I do I don’t expect
you to do this but it’s kind of nice if
you find a problem on a plug that you
know which cylinder to attribute that
problem to okay now we’re going to move
along to to our distributor and our
wires he looks like I said like I showed
you earlier is the new cap step over
here on the hood see snorkel out of the
way there is our old cap here’s the
wires going to it obviously right here
let’s disturb your cap at this point I
will loosen this cap it’s got screws
here one on one on the front side and
one on the back side and you can see
there’s like a slot there where
fasteners are typically it’ll come with
new fasteners here they are here this
these fasteners are a Torx fastener
which is a specific type of tool like a
screwdriver but it’s a Torx bit it’s
kind of like an Allen wrench but it’s
got pointy edges you probably can’t see
it for these this is why I buy a
complete tamper proof set just like this
it’s got everything you’d ever need this
particular size is a t20 Torx 20 you
will need to remove the distributor cap
bolt fasteners also looks like yep it
looks like the rotor fasteners as well
are also Torx here by the way if you can
if you have one of these magnetic trays
there I have a half a dozen of them they
really come in handy can’t dump them off
those magnets on the bottom can’t lose
anything they’re really handy to have
okay
okay so what I’ve done is I’ve gone
through I’ve loosened these little
keepers for the spark plug wires open
them up and leave the wires in place
I’ve already gone through it pulled the
wire from the first cylinder pulled it
clear out up to where it was on the
distributor cap which I’ll say like is
now you loose I know it’s very difficult
to see which you’ll get the gist
especially if you’re doing this on a
truck in front of you so what I have now
is I have the old wire here which you
can see in a new one if you look at the
old one it’s got it’s got the number of
the cylinder on it right there
number two new ones don’t necessarily
have that in this case these ones the
new ones don’t have that they’re not
printed with the number so what I do is
I compare the old one to the rest of the
wires that are in my stack here I find
the one that’s closest to that length
and that’s my wire generally sometimes
it can be some of these are not going to
be exactly the same length but you’ll
get in kind of a general idea of which
one goes where by determining the length
of the new wire compared to your open
okay some of these plug plug wires come
with a little packet of dielectric
grease right here what I you typically
do is you can either put it on the end
of the spark plug when you put it in or
incomplete on the end of the wire which
is what I did here squirt in there
doesn’t take much some people don’t use
this some people do I live in Minnesota
where the weather can get pretty salty
roads can get pretty salty a lot of
debris a lot of crap it’s nice to have
this stuff so I just put a little little
squirt in there I actually have a can of
this but just for demonstration purposes
I’m going to use the packet that came
with the wires did not and you want some
dielectric grease is readily available
in tubes or cans from the auto parts
store so having said that what I’m going
to do is come back over here to the
engine going to connect this wire that I
just found make sure you get a nice
positive click on the spark plug and
you’re just going to come back put it in
the same slot you just pulled the old
wire out of it’s like so
all the way up you can put it on the
distributor side too if you like
just snap it into the Loom where the old
wire was connect it to the distributor
cap where the old wire was just do one
at a time one wire at a time until you
get all eight done this is the case with
this engine okay so we’ve got the new
plugs in on the side new wires and on
this side all clipped into the harness
in the same spot they were before it’s
not necessarily going to be pretty all
the time because these are all different
links compared to the factory wires so I
go around to each particular hole make
sure that you have no wires laying on
how the manifolds or anything if you do
just pull a little bit of slack through
here or push some here go up to your
last connector what I usually do is I
connect them into this last clip here in
a line in the order that they go to the
distributor cap see they’re not crossed
over so as long as they’re in this clip
you know exactly where they go on the
distributor cap on the other side I
haven’t touched this other Bank yet
we’re going to look if there’s the
connector there in the connector in the
same order same order as they go into
the distributor cap so here’s what I’m
going to do at this point I’m going to
change out the distributor cap remember
I have it loose so now you just want to
pluck the distributor cap out you don’t
have to worry about where the wires are
because they’re in the order in the
connectors you know what I mean
see what I’m saying the way that they go
into the distributor cap so I’m going to
pluck all these out I slip these new
ones on just a little bit and I’m going
to take this cap out now and I’ll be
with you in just a sec okay so I pluck
the distributor out I mentioned before
we talk about the coil wire that’s here
here’s coil plug wire goes right to the
top of that coil
voila this is your distributor cap if
you look close right there underneath
the distributor cap is the rotor that we
will also be changing okay so here’s our
old distributor cap next to our new one
you probably can’t see it in this film
as I keep saying but there’s corrosion
on all the posts Center buttons got some
wear on it as well as some corrosion
compared to the new one that’s the way
the tailhook side-by-side we’re going to
go after this rotor this rotor has two
screws one here one here
they’re both torques as well however
this one step down size this torque size
Torx bit size is t15 rather than 220 so
we’re just going to go in here we’re
going to pull this one we’re going to
pull the other one and this rotor will
slide right out okay here’s our old
broader compared to our new one you can
see if you look close which you won’t be
able to see here some corrosion on the
end here as well as somewhere on the
central tab and some a little bitter
well I guess carbon buildup on the
inside of that but I’m gonna take a look
you cannot put this in wrong you just
physically can’t there’s a pin here in
here that you may or may not be able to
see there are different distances from
the center hole of the screws you want
to keep that in mind when you’re putting
them in that you get those pins in the
holes on the distributor correctly and
then just pop it in tighten them down by
the way these are going to come with new
screws course you want to use those
these tiny little dogs 215s use the new
hardware and I’m going to go ahead and
throw this out okay new rotors in be
very sensible with the screws they can
twist the heads off very easily to date
very small screws we’re just in a set
stupider cap back on and again I keep
saying it it’s very difficult to see but
if you’re doing this on your own vehicle
obviously you’ll be able to have a much
better vantage point so just going to
set the distributor cap on make sure
it’s in place the correct way we’re
going to run the t20 Torx screws in the
front in the back tighten those down
again reasonably very easy to twist the
heads off or the stripped threads
okay coil where this backside post looks
a little bit different just going to
plug the coil into there I have to do
facing straight up these coil wires are
a little bit long with this set but you
try to deal with the length are but you
can just make sure they’re not chafing
on anything and of course the other end
from the distributor cap goes into the
top of the coil now we’re on the pass or
a rather diverse I’d rather of the
engine we’re going to do the same thing
as before
unloosen all the clips holding the spark
plug wires into place all the way up to
the distributor I just set the plugs
onto the new distributor cap in the
order that they came off before and just
start pulling them start with the
longest one first at the front of the
engine pulled out of all clips and go
find the longest one in your set start
doing one at a time again okay we got
the passenger side flux in and the wires
in into their respective harnesses
harnesses are all clipped the wires have
been checked to make sure they’re not
chafing on hot exhaust or anything else
the wires are fully seated on to the
plugs which is important and they’re
fully seated onto the distributor which
is important so that ends our tune-up of
this 1998 5.7 liter Vortech last year
the Vortech we got to do now is put our
snorkel back into place fire the engine
up make sure everything is good
no misfires if you do have a misfire you
could have a loose plug wire you could
have a couple different things if you
miss the if you miss your mark on the
firing order for the plugs go from the
where the wires go from the plugs to the
distributor
don’t panic get on the internet find a
schematic I have that information but
it’s also readily available on the
internet find a find a chart there’s
drawings out there that show the engine
and where each wire goes to the
distributor and the firing order very
simple to figure that out if you lose
your place do not panic
google it that’s going to be it for this
tune-up I hope I was helpful if you have
any questions feel free to post them
below don’t forget to like and sub
bribe and if you’re interested we are
going to be doing a driver side wheel
bearing on this same vehicle I’m going
to be filming that later on today thank
you

Bestseller No. 1


NGK 3951 Pack of 8 Spark Plugs (TR55)

232 Reviews


NGK 3951 Pack of 8 Spark Plugs (TR55)

  • Pack of 8
  • Genuine OEM NGK parts
  • NGK spark plugs are an OE cornerstone that have provided decades of reliable performance
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Last update on 2020-08-03 / Disclaimer: as an Amazon Associate a Simply Philosophy team earns from qualifying purchases.

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Last update on 2020-08-03 / Disclaimer: as an Amazon Associate a Simply Philosophy team earns from qualifying purchases.